Quick kids scarf

With my wedding in a week’s time, what better time to start a new project. Two projects, actually. Crocheting yet another dog rattle, only this time reincarnationed as an elephant, and knitting an unfancy scarf for a 1 yr old.

The elephant is only up to the third round, so barely covering its head, but it does remind me of another half finished dog rattle I have floating around somewhere. I think I have another month before that one’s due.

it’s been so long since I’ve actually knitted anything – I’m looking forward to hunting out my needles tomorrow morning.

So this is the plan for the kids scarf:

CO  14 – or more if neck is longer – it will look too narrow when you’ve cast on, but will widen as you knit more rows

Knit until it meets up with the start when wrapped around child’s head.

Knit 2 more rows, then split stitches for either side of the buttonhole

Knit until just shy of the diameter of your button, then join sides again for another 4 rows.

Bind off

Fingers crossed it works out okay!

Taggie toy

For the past few weeks I have been watching my son fondle all the tags on the various toys and jumpers he has… which eventually led to the lightbulb above my head going “Ping!”. There’s a reason I’ve saved all the ribbons off all the presents that I’ve ever been given.

First, collect all the ribbons together.

Then, grab 2 pieces of fabric in any shape you like. I did a triangle, and each side is about 15cm long. Some of the ones I’ve seen on made it are up to 35cm, but I thought I’d start small.

I actually put a plastic layer inbetween the 2 fabrics, to give it that crackly noise when it moves. All I did to get this was find an especially crackly shopping bag and cut it the same size as the fabric pieces.

Pin all your ribbon bits to one of the fabric pieces, making sure the pieces all point inwards.

Often people forget this and end up with the ribbons on the inside of their finished toy. You might like to add a little ribbon loop that you could slide a plastic loop through, so that you can clip it onto something so the thing doesn’t always fall on the ground, with you endlessly having to pick it up.

Sew it all up, leaving a gap to turn the toy right side out.

Top stitch all the way around, and sew through the middle, just to keep it flatish.

bandana bibs

I suffer greatly from a syndrome called “I Could Make That”. It’s like curtains – I don’t see any need to pay vast sums of money for something that is a few pieces of material sewn together and hemmed, with a bit of that curtain tap stuff sewn on the back. It’s all straight lines, for goodness sake! And yet, I don’t actually ever make the curtains myself, but feel guilty for buying them.

Which brings us to the bandana bib. Bibs in general are super easy, and I think the bandana bib is even easier as it’s just a triangle. Absolutely nothing tricky about that, unless you’re adding snaps, and even those are fairly easy to work out how to do.

So here are a few tutorials and patterns I’m considering:

• simple triangle bib with photo tutorial
• a larger and longer bib
• a nice pattern (pdf), but in japanese – not that this is a problem as you’re just tracing around the triangle anyway, although it doesn’t include a seam allowance

Or I could just buy one from Byron Bibs, which is a pretty good price when you consider you’d have to spend about that buying the fabric to make one yourself!

Reindeer rattle

With only a few hours to go, I finally finished the reindeer rattle! The antlers were the greatest challenge, being so little and also as I couldn’t find a pattern I liked (and because I’m seriously sleep deprived at the moment!).

I’m sharing my antler pattern below, as it’s really not that difficult but sometimes it’s just easier when someone else has already worked out the pattern for you.

Antlers for a reindeer

This reindeer has been hooked in  4 ply cotton with a 3mm hook and I used the Dog Rattle as the base of the rattle.

In an antler appropriate colour, chain 7.
Turn, dc into second chain, dc across (6 dc in total).
Now join the two ends by dc into first chain on other side.
Dc 4 rounds

Now you need to increase to branch out the antlers:
2 dc into first stitch, 1 dc into next, 2 dc into next 2 stitches,1 dc into next, then another 2 dc into the last stitch (10 stitches).

You now divide these into two groups of five for each antler branch. I use my darning needle to show me where the division is, and also because I go a little cross-eyed with small stitches and dark yarn!

For the first antler branch, dc 6 rounds and then tie off. For the second antler branch, dc 4 rounds to get the uneven look, the tie off. I stuffed the bottom part of the antlers before sewing it onto the rattle to help them stand up.

For larger antlers, use a 4mm hook and 8ply yarn, or 5mm hook and 10 ply yarn.

Chain as many as you need for your antler circumference. Turn  and dc into 2nd chain. dc across then join the two ends by dc into first chain on other side.
Dc as many rounds as you need for the height you want for your antlers before they branch off.

• Just make a note of how many you do, so you can do it the same on the other side.
• Depending on your antler size, you may want to stuff the bottom now, if if they’re quite large, arrange some wire inside the antlers to keep them standing up

Now you need to increase before branching out for the antlers:

For the little ones I went from 6dc, upto 10dc before then splitting to 5dc for the antler branch. Try to do something similar – increase to almost twice as many stitches, then you’ll halve those stitches to just less than you originally had.

A combination of 2dc in every second or third stitch will get you there, though you will need to do a quick sketch.

You now divide these into two groups for each antler branch. I use my darning needle to show me where the division is, and also because I go a little cross-eyed with small stitches and dark yarn!

For the first antler branch, dc 6 rounds, stuff it, and then tie off. For the second antler branch, dc 4 rounds to get the uneven look, stuff it, then tie off. You can, of course, make them as high as you like.

Pattern:	Reindeer Antlers by Erin Douglas
Hook:	3.00mm
Yarn:	4 ply cotton

Crochet balls

Another toy to protect the floor boards (you must all think I’m obsessed by these boards – well, I am, just a little bit). This one in the shape of a ball – very easy to make. Basically it’s to cover a cat toy, which you can buy at junk shops in packs of 4 for about $2. Some of the balls need a little bit of wadding added, others fit perfectly.

Balls in 15 rows

• 4mm hook
• 8ply yarn

R1: Cast on 6 chains using the magic ring – 6 stitches
R2: 2 double chains (british stitches) in each stitch  (12)
R3: 1 dc in the first stitch, then 2 dc in the next stitch, repeat all the way around (18)
R4: 1 dc in the next 2 stitches, then 2 dc in the 3rd stitch, repeat all the way around (24)
R5: 1 dc in the next 3 stitches, then 2 dc in the 4th stitch, repeat all the way around (38)
R6: 1 dc in the next 4 stitches, then 2 dc in the 5th stitch, repeat all the way around (42)

R7-10: Then dc in each chain for about 4 rows. The number of rows will depend on how big your balls are. I find you can generally divide the ball into thirds as a guide.

You now need to decrease:

R11: 1 dc in the next 4 stitches, then c2tog, repeat all the way around
R12: 1 dc in the next 3 stitches, then c2tog, repeat all the way around

At this stage you will need to put the cat toy in. You may want to add some wadding around the toy if it’s not quite snug.

R13: 1 dc in the next 2 stitches, then c2tog, repeat all the way around
R14: 1 dc in the next stitch, then c2tog, repeat all the way around
R15: c2tog all the way around, tie off

Pattern:	Balls in 15 rows by Erin Douglas
Hook:	4.00mm
Yarn:	Various 8 ply yarns

baby shower bunting

My friend’s baby shower is this weekend, and I’ve volunteered to make bunting – for some reason I have a bit of a fascination with it! Anyway I trawled around the web looking for a template – I know, it’s only a triangle! But I was more interested in seeing what sizes people were using. This is what I found:

• small and large bunting (though I wouldn’t call it large)
• A4 or letter sized bunting
• Grace Designs sewed them wrong side facing with zig zag stitch

Quite a few either just cut with pinking shears or sewed wrong side facing – but I took my cue from the bunting for sale on etsy and sewed them right side facing to turn them inside out and iron. A bit of extra work, but I feel it’s worth it in the end!

For 5m of bunting, here’s what I did:

I drew my template (pdf), which I patiently laid out and traced around to cut up like crazy.

I used 9 different fabric patterns 25 cm wide – we had a mixture of colours and dots, stripes and plain

Traced and cut like a demon, then lined them all up, right side facing.

I then spent a quality 1.5 hours sewing Vs on the diagonals of the flags.

After this, you just turn them inside out (right side out) and iron them flat – I’ve got to say that this is the most tedious part of the whole process. Mainly because I truly hate ironing.

I then worked out a semi order to the colours so that I didn’t end up with doubles or an odd concentration of colour.

Sewing onto the biastape

Be careful when you’re sewing the triangles to the bias tape – those sneaky little corners like to pop out when you least expect it, which is a pain to have to go back and sew them in.

I left a length of about 12-14cm at each end, so that my friend could tie the bunting to curtain rods, trees or whatever if she ever needed to.

Little ring bowl

I thought I was being clever, threading my engagement ring through my watch band so that I didn’t loose the ring. Not so clever it seems, as I’ve found little scratches on the side of the ring – caused by my watch, I think. You see, my watch is a solid metal bangle affair, with a hinge. I love it, but I now need another way to keep my ring safe.

So I’ve come up with this quick and easy ring bowl which guarantees there won’t be any accidental scratches!

Little ring bowl

Cast on with magic loop of 6. Leave a long thread. (also bear in mind that I’ve really only ever written knitting patterns, so may be using the wrong language!)

1st round: *1dc, then 2dc in the next, * repeat

2nd round: *2dc, then 2dc in the next, * repeat

3rd round: *3dc, then 2dc in the next, * repeat

4th round: *4dc, then 2dc in the next, * repeat

5th round: *5dc, then 2dc in the next, * repeat

6th round: *dc in each

7th round: *5dc, then decrease 2 into one, * repeat

weave threads in. I had a bit of a gap at the bottom of the bowl, so I just weaved the end back and forth to cover it.

Felt lightly by running under hot water then shaping the bottom of the bowl so it doesn’t roll. To ensure the bowl sides are even, I left it to dry on the window sill with a little tupperware container lid on top of it.

Pattern:	Little ring bowl by me
Hook:	4.0mm
Yarn:	Spotlight Basics Wool

Man scarf for Christmas

This scarf is very VERY simple, but you will need to keep count of your rows to get even squares!

I used 6.5mm (US 10 1/2) needles and Moda Vera Mousse yarn (which is 10 or 12 ply), but I wouldn’t use this one again, as it leaves little bits of fluff all over my partner’s suit – maybe a straight wool next time.

Pattern

Cast on 24 stitches

Row 1-5:  K4, P4
Row 6:  knit
Row 7-11:  P4, K4
Row 12: knit

Repeat until desired length – mine is 54 blocks long.

Gauge is not important, but if you feel the scarf is too narrow, then add more stitches in lots of 8, and if you feel it’s too wide, then reduce in lots of 8 – easy!

Update: This pattern also now features on http://www.squidoo.com/mens-patterns

iPhone sock

My brother requested an iPhone sock, and he wanted it to be plain and masculine, and no button. So taking the basic principle of “it’s a tube” and trial and error-ing until I had a firm tube for it to live in, here is my pattern:

• 4ply yarn or cotton
• 2.5mm needles

CO36 with the magic loop method/ sock toe method – http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html

knit approx 50 rounds or until is the desired length

I finished with a rib of K3, P1 for 4 rows – this will stop the top rolling, and you can also use a second colour like I have.

The yarn I used was Sullivans 4ply mercerised cotton, so it has a slightly shininess to it, which is nice.

iphone sock

yo-yos are giving me grief

After a fair bit of trial and error and yelling at the computer, I have made some yo-yos:

Prior to this lovely photo, the yo-yos were causing me a lot of pain – maybe because it wa late at night, and because it seemed so simple that I was beating myself up about it because I didn’t understand the instructions.

I think part of it is realising that americans write their crochet patterns differently to english/australians – you know, where a double chain to me is a single chain to them, plus extremely minimal instructions in the pattern I was using.

But I perservered and found a youtube video with instructions for the first round. Of course, me being difficult, I wanted to do my yo-yos like Leigha’s (on ravelry) with no white border between each one, so I needed to find those instructions too.

How to make a yo-yo for australians in very simple language

First wheel

1. form a ring – you can do this either by chaining 4 and joining them with a slip stitch, or by using the magic loop method.

2. Chain 3, then do 11 treble crochets (or double crochets in the american patterns) in a row (so 12 spokes to the wheel)

3. once finished the trebles, slip stitch (single crochet for americans) into the second chain of the original chain 3 in step 2.

Second wheel

1. chain 3, then double crochet into the gap between the spokes of the first wheel.

2. chain another 3, then double crochet into the gap. Do this the whole way around, and finish with a slip stitch into the first chain of the first spoke of the second wheel.

There are full, proper instructions here on the many ways to join the yo-yos – I used the flat-braiding joining method: http://priscillascrochet.net/free%20patterns/Yo%20Yo%20Afghans%201.pdf